Culture affects everything around us from the movies we watch to the books that we read. It also provides the bedrock to what a society really is and believes in.
So, it comes as no great surprise that the world of fashion, always looking for outside influences for inspiration, often takes culture as a starting point.
It might be adopting the urban style with streetwear style hoodies or harking back to the styles of the past, for example with the return of bell bottom jeans.
But, as we shall see, there’s a fine line to be negotiated when it comes to using cultural influences if designers and brands want to avoid accusations of exploitation. Put simply, some cultural influences are considered to be out of bounds while others are 100% acceptable.
Going native
One of the most common ways in which culture informs fashion is in the use of native style. This can be anything from dresses that aim to follow the cut and style of the Indian sari to the use of the colorful fabrics that typify African dress.
There’s also the use of material that reflects the culture from which it comes. The wide use of silk in Chinese dress reflects that country’s rich tradition in cultivating silkworms.
There are also plenty examples of cultural mashups in fashion with ethnic looks being combined with more traditional styles, cherry-picking the elements for a practical and aesthetically pleasing result.
From the street
It was probably the hip-hop explosion of the 70s that first saw street influences coming to the attention of designers.
The vibrant street culture that it represented provided a great opportunity to bring the look to a wider audience.
The look itself drew in many cultural influences and was driven by resourcefulness. So sportswear was prominent along with hoodies and boots from brands like Timberland and sneakers from Nike and Adidas.
It came full circle in the 1980s and 90s when rap stars began to introduce their own fashion brands – with clothes at prices way beyond the pockets of many people. High-end fashion also got in on the act with everyone from Versace to Gucci starting to incorporate street style into their collections.
Stand up and protest
There has also been a strong tradition of fashion being used as protest, particularly at a time when society has been destabilized by certain events.
In the 1960s and early 70s at the height of unrest about America’s involvement in Vietnam T shirts started to include the sorts of slogans more usually found on demonstrators’ placards.
Similarly, at the end of the 70s when the punk movement was at its height ripped jeans held together with safety pins, tartan fanny packs and dramatic make-up represented the unrest that a generation was starting to feel.
It was in this milieu that the designer Vivienne Westwood started to produce fashions at her store in London’s King Road, the epicentre of punk at the time. It’s ironic that she then went on to produce high-end clothes with more classical cultural influences – but fashion never stands still.
When things go too far
One of the dangers for designers in pulling in other looks and styles is the risk of accusations of cultural appropriation. In these ultra-sensitive times this is becoming an even more acute issue. One only has to look back to 2016 when Kylie Jenner caused a certain level of outrage by wearing a durag.
This had become an important item of cultural identity for many African Americans, not something to be worn by an influencer trying to look edgy.
Other areas for designers to avoid are clothes with religious or ceremonial significance, certain to come in for the fiercest criticism when they are inappropriately copied.
So, while cultural influences can offer a rich seam of inspiration, it’s one to be treated with care if designers want to stay on the right side of public sentiment.
